Gentrification, Cambodian Style

Gentrification — I’ve seen it everywhere I’ve lived from New York to Cambodia, and everywhere in between. We all have. And I’ve struggled to know what to feel about it. Of course, in some ways, it is a signal of progress. In other ways, it can...

Giant Puppets!

Saturday night in Siem Reap…actually, any night in Siem Reap near the Old Market, is a big night. But this past Saturday night was something special. Over the past few years, an annual Giant Puppet Parade has been staged which has now become one of THE events of...

Arrivals

And so it begins.  Arriving for my first day of the workshops is always the same and different. There is always an excitement, knowing that something new will happen — new kids to meet, old ones to see, wondering what changes will greet me. This is what I found...

Western Baray: Before Classes Begin

The Sunday before my workshops started, I went with an Australian volunteer/friend and two of my Khmer students to watch the sunset at the Western Baray. This is a reservoir made during the time of the Angkor kings (so they say). It has turned into a sort of beach...

Waking in Cambodia

This is what I remembered: Breakfast of jackfruit, watermelon, pineapple and mango (very Khmer) beside a plate of fried egg and toast, with coffee (not very Khmer). The street view from my breakfast table. The immediate sense of heat.The aromas of flowers mixed with...